刘雨诗,刘维杰,赵西增,陶金波.基于激波捕捉类Boussinesq模型对岛礁地形上波浪传播的数值模拟[J].海洋工程,2019,37(5):48~56
基于激波捕捉类Boussinesq模型对岛礁地形上波浪传播的数值模拟
Shock-capturing Boussinesq modelling of wave transformation over fringing reefs
  
DOI:10.16483/j.issn.1005-9865.2019.05.006
中文关键词:  激波捕捉法  岛礁地形  规则波  不规则波  Funwave-TVD
英文关键词:shock-capturing method  reef bathymetry  regular waves  irregular waves  Funwave-TVD
基金项目:国家自然科学基金(91647209);海岸灾害及防护教育部重点实验室开放研究基金(201708);水沙科学与水灾害防治湖南省重点实验室开放基金(2018SS03)
作者单位E-mail
刘雨诗 浙江大学 海洋学院浙江 舟山 316021 21734100@zju.edu.cn 
刘维杰 浙江大学 海洋学院浙江 舟山 316021 weijieliu@zju.edu.cn 
赵西增 浙江大学 海洋学院浙江 舟山 316021  
陶金波 北海预报中心山东 青岛 266061  
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中文摘要:
      为了探究激波捕捉类Boussinesq模型在模拟岛礁地形上规则波和不规则波传播的可行性,采用基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程并具有激波捕捉能力的数值模型Funwave-TVD对规则波和不规则波在岛礁地形上的传播进行了数值模拟,通过与试验数据对比,分析模型中空间步长的影响,验证模型在模拟波高、平均水位分布以及波谱空间演变的能力,结果表明:采用合适的空间步长,模型能较好地模拟规则波和不规则波在岛礁地形上的传播和演化过程。对于规则波,较小的空间步长可改善破碎点处波高峰值的预测,并能更好地预测波浪破碎后波高的空间分布,相比结合经验破碎的Boussinesq模型,Funwave-TVD能更好地模拟规则波在岛礁地形上的破碎,以及破碎以后行进涌波的再生成过程;对于不规则波,Funwave-TVD总体而言能较好地模拟涌浪有效波高、次重力波的生成及空间演化和平均水位,但会低估礁坪上次重力波波高,较粗的空间步长也会低估礁坪上涌浪有效波高。
英文摘要:
      In order to demonstrate the ability of shock-capturing Boussinesq model in predicting regular and irregular wave transformations over fringing reefs, the fully nonlinear Boussinesq model with shock-capturing capability, Funwave-TVD, was utilized to simulate regular and irregular wave transformation over fringing reefs. Predicted wave heights, mean water level and wave spectra were validated with experimental data and the sensitivity of the grid size was investigated. The results show that with a proper grid size, the present model can reasonably reproduce the regular and irregular wave transformation over fringing reefs. For regular waves, fine grid size can improve the prediction of the wave height around and after breaking point. Compared to the Boussinesq model coupled with an empirical breaking model, the present model is more suitable to simulate wave breaking and bore-propagation over fringing reefs. For irregular waves, the present model can reasonably reproduce the significant sea-swell wave height, generation and propagation of infragravity waves and mean water level. But the infragravity wave height over the reef flat is underestimated and coarse grid size can under-predict the significant sea-swell wave height over the reef flat as well.
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